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Not certain how best to do this. I put together a 25 page compilation of material on saving seeds and long term seed storage. I'll try cut and paste but have my doubts. Moderators if this takes up too much server space delete it.


By Robert Wayne Atkins, P.E.
Grandpappy.info

A Quick Comparison of Vegetable Seeds to Silver Dollars
The small seed envelopes available for sale at hardware stores and supermarkets are generally priced between $0.97 to $1.69 per package. Each individual package usually contains somewhere between 100 mg to 3.5 g of seed, with an average of 900 mg of seeds per package. 1000 mg equals 1 gram and 1 gram equals 0.035 standard ounces. Therefore 900 mg equals approximately 0.0315 standard ounces or 0.0287 troy ounces. If the average seed package contains 900 mg of seeds and cost $0.97 then that is equivalent to $33.80 per troy ounce, which far exceeds the current market price of a one-ounce United States Silver Eagle. (Note: $0.97 / 0.0287 troy ounce = $33.80 per troy ounce.)
Therefore, in today’s normal global economy, seeds are more expensive per ounce than pure refined silver. And history has repeatedly demonstrated that during serious worldwide famine conditions, food and seeds eventually become more valuable than gold.
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Basic Instructions for Saving Vegetable Seeds

1. SEED TYPES: When you first purchase seeds you should avoid “Hybrid Seeds.” Instead you should buy “Heirloom Seeds” or “Open Pollinated Seeds.” Hybrid seeds are “man-made seeds” and they are only good for ONE planting. (Note: If you plant hybrid seeds and then save the seeds from the hybrid plants that are produced, and then plant those seeds the following spring, the results will be unpredictable. The plant that grows will usually resemble one of its parents or grandparents or something in-between. It is also possible that it may produce NO fruit at all.) Heirloom seeds, on the other hand, will produce crops that yield seeds that will reproduce the same plant year after year after year as God originally intended. (Genesis 1:11 – Then God said, “Let the earth bring forth grass, the herb that yields seed, and the fruit tree that yields fruit according to its kind, whose seed is in itself, on the earth;” and it was so.) When you purchase a package of seeds, you should NOT plant ALL the seeds from the original package the first year. Instead you should save some of them for planting in future years in the event your first year’s planting efforts are not successful. You should also clearly mark exactly where you plant each type of seed with the name and variety of that seed so you can keep track of which varieties of seed do best in your climate and in your soil.
2. DISEASE AVOIDANCE: After you have planted your seeds and the plants appear, do NOT collect seeds from a diseased plant because the disease will have infected that specific plant’s genes and all future plants grown from those seeds will be easily susceptible to that same disease.
3. SEED SELECTION: Use the very best looking, strongest, and most productive plants in your garden for seeds. Generally, you are NOT looking for that ONE special fruit on the vine. Instead the characteristics you should look for are: early bearing of fruit, total fruit yield, fruit size and flavor and aroma, and disease resistance. Also, if applicable, late bolting to seed. Resist the urge to eat your most delectable looking vegetables. Those are the ones you want to duplicate every year in the future. After you have selected the fruits you want to keep for seed, identify them with a special marker such as a wooden stake beside the plant, or a ribbon or string loosely tied to the plant or vine. In most cases (but not all) it is important to save seeds from at least three different plants of the same variety to provide good pollination opportunities the following spring.
4. SEED RIPENESS: Allow seeds to fully ripen before harvesting to achieve the best germination yield the following spring. The seed must be given time to store enough nourishment so it can germinate the following spring and grow into a healthy seedling.
5. DRYING: Seeds must be dried before they are stored (between 5% to 13% moisture content, with an average of 8%). Individual seeds should be separated from one another so they can dry more evenly. Larger seeds will require more time to air dry whereas smaller seeds will require less time. Do NOT try to dry the seeds too quickly or they may shrink and crack. And do NOT dry at a temperature higher than 100°F. Indoor air drying is usually the best. However, if you live in an extremely humid area, then you may dry your seeds by placing them in the sun in front of a southern facing window for about two days. Since there is no easy inexpensive method for measuring the exact moisture content of your seeds, you will need to use your own judgment based on your personal experience. Generally the drier the seed (but NOT below 5%), the longer the seed will remain alive in storage. Based on Dr. James Harrington’s research, each additional 1% decrease in the dryness of a vegetable seed from 13% down to 5% will double its storage life, However, below 5% will normally kill the seed and above 13% will usually result in the seed not surviving the first winter. Since the home gardener does not have the expensive equipment to accurately measure the exact moisture content of a batch of seeds, the home gardener may wish to use a trial and error approach. When you first suspect that your seeds are dry enough, put half of them into paper envelopes and label the envelopes with the variety of seed and indicate how many days the seeds were dried. Continue drying the remainder of the seeds for a few more days. Then put half of those seeds into paper envelopes and label them as your second drying with the total number of drying days. After a few more days of drying put the remainder of the seeds into a paper envelope and label them as your third drying with the total number of drying days. When you test each envelope of seeds in future years, you can use this trial and error method to estimate the optimal number of drying days for each type of seed based on your climate, and your humidity, and your average normal drying conditions.
6. STORAGE: AFTER your seeds are dry, store your seeds in a standard small paper envelope, or a paper bag, or a cloth bag in a dry, cool area. Do NOT allow the seeds to remain in direct contact with the air or they will gradually absorb moisture from the humidity in the air with the passage of time. After placing the seeds in a standard small paper envelope or cloth bag, you can store that envelope or bag inside a standard plastic freezer bag. Freezer bags are more expensive and of a higher quality than regular plastic bags. Do NOT seal your seeds inside a vacuum plastic bag without air because seeds are living organisms and they need a MINIMUM amount of air to continue their life cycle. The BEST place to store seeds is in a plastic freezer bag inside a refrigerator at a temperature between 33°F to 40°F. This will more than double the storage life of your seeds.
7. LABELING: Clearly label each of your seed envelopes or bags using permanent ink to identify the exact variety of seed and the year the seed was harvested. Also include the number of days the seed was allowed to dry, along with any unusual weather conditions during the drying process, such as unusually humid weather or unusually warm or cold weather during the drying process.
8. SEED BANK: Most seeds can successfully germinate for three to five years after harvesting, even if they are NOT stored in a refrigerator. Therefore, it is prudent to have your own “Seed Bank” into which you deposit approximately 10% of the seeds you harvest each year. If an unexpected disease attacks your crops one year then you will NOT be able to harvest any seeds from that year’s crops, even though you may be able to eat some or most of that year’s poor quality marginal vegetables. In this type of situation your “Seed Bank” will permit the re-establishment of the quality of your crops in future years. The seeds in your “Seed Bank” are your insurance against unpredictable future diseases that may sweep through your geographical area. They are also good insurance against an unexpected cross-pollination that produces a seed that is different than you expected. In most cases you will not become aware of this type of problem until harvest time the following fall. Once again, your “Seed Bank” will allow you to re-establish this variety the following spring using seeds saved from previous years BEFORE the problem appeared.
9. EMERGENCY SEED RESERVE: Each spring you should gradually plant each variety of seed over an extended period of several weeks. You should NOT plant all your seeds of one variety at the same time. This reduces your risk of loss to late frosts and it provides a longer harvest period for fresh vegetables for the table. If you have seeds that are more than one year old which are NOT part of your “Seed Bank”, then your first planting the following spring should be one-half of those older seeds. If you do NOT have any two or three year old seeds, then do NOT plant more than half your previous year’s seed the following spring. Save at least half of the previous year’s seed as an “Emergency Seed Reserve” (in addition to your “Seed Bank”). Occasional late snows or an unexpected late frost can kill everything you plant at the beginning of spring. Your “Emergency Seed Reserve” will allow you to plant a second time that same year. Later during the spring or summer other problems may arise, such as heavy rains or no rains or insect damage or tornados or hurricanes, and these disasters could result in no crops to harvest in the fall. In disaster situations like these, it provides some comfort to know that you still have a reasonable amount of seed reserved for planting the following year. If you are forced to use your “Emergency Seed Reserve,” then only plant half of them and keep the rest of the seeds in reserve. Always keep at least half of your remaining seed as an “Emergency Seed Reserve” for really hard times. This means each future planting will be much smaller, but that is much better than having NOTHING to plant at all. Because of unpredictable situations such as the above, each year it would be wise to harvest at least twice the amount of seed you think you will need the following year. This strategy will also provide you with seed to share, sell, or trade and it will bring you one step closer to being an independent, resourceful human being in God’s natural order of things.
10. PREPARING SEEDS FOR PLANTING: (Note: These suggestions are optional.) Place the seeds you wish to plant in the freezer compartment of your refrigerator for three hours. When you remove the seed from the freezer the rush of warm air will help to break its winter dormancy. Then place the individual seeds between two damp paper towels for one day in a warm area. The seed is now in an optimal condition for immediate planting.
11. SPRING GERMINATION TEST: (Note: This step is optional.) You can test the viability of your seeds BEFORE you plant them in the ground in the spring. Use a medium-tip permanent marker to write the name of the seed and the year it was harvested on a DRY paper towel. Then dampen the paper towel and place ten seeds on one-half of the towel. Fold the towel in half so the seeds are between the two halves of the damp paper towel. Place the damp paper towel inside a plastic trash bag and put it in a warm place. You can put several damp paper towels containing different seed varieties in the same plastic trash bag. Keep the paper towels slightly damp but NOT soaking wet. Periodically check the seeds based on the average germination time for each type of seed. You can determine the “approximate” germination rate by counting the number of seeds that sprout and dividing by the original number of seeds tested. For example, if you tested 10 seeds and 8 of them sprouted, then the germination rate is 80% (8/10 x 100). You can then plant these sprouted seeds in a peat pot indoors if the outdoor weather is too cold, or you can plant them in the ground if warm weather has arrived.
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How should seeds be stored?
The conditions which prolong viability during storage have been well defined for seeds which are tolerant of desiccation. Storage conditions have been recommended by the IBPGR Advisory Committee on Seed Storage. For base collections, seeds of between 3-7 % moisture content should be stored in sealed containers. Sub-zero temperatures are acceptable, but -18 °C or less is preferred. For active collections sealed storage of seeds dried to 7% moisture content or less is recommended at temperatures of less than 15 °C. Unsealed storage is not encouraged. In particular, it is not recommended in tropical areas.


http://www2.bioversityinternational.org/publications/Web_version/188/ch09.htm


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VII. Seed Storage
What is meant by seed storage?
In a genebank, seed storage is the preservation of seeds under controlled environmental conditions which will prolong the viability of the seeds for long periods. Two types of seed stores are used for collections of genetic resources, those holding base collections and those holding active collections. The temperature, relative humidities, seed moisture contents, containers and distribution arrangements vary between these stores.
Why are seeds stored?
Seeds must be stored in a way which maintains their viability for long periods. Seeds left at ambient temperatures and relative humidities will lose their viability quickly whilst seeds stored in conditions of low moisture content and temperature will retain their viability for longer periods. Accessions held in a genebank are valuable and represent plants which are no longer available or which are endangered in their natural environment. These seeds must be conserved in the genebank for use in plant breeding in the future.
When should seeds be placed into store?
As soon as the seed has matured on the plant the slow process of deterioration begins. Therefore the sooner that seeds are placed into store the better. In practical terms this means that seeds collected in the field should be quickly returned to genebanks, processed and placed into store as soon as the cleaning, drying and packaging processes are complete.
How many seeds of each accession should be stored?
The IBPGR Advisory Committee on Seed Storage has recommended that for materials showing little morphological variation (genetically homogeneous) 3000 seeds are acceptable, but 4000 seeds are preferred, to represent each accession. For materials showing a large amount of morphological variation (heterogeneous) an accession should consist of at least 4000 seeds, but 12000 seeds are preferred. These sample sizes are recommended as number of seed but many genebanks would prefer to work with weight. An inter-conversion of numbers and weights is possible from the thousand seed weight of any accession. A list of approximate thousand seed weights of some common species is given in Appendix 2 of Cromarty, Ellis and Roberts (1982).
How should seeds be stored?
The conditions which prolong viability during storage have been well defined for seeds which are tolerant of desiccation. Storage conditions have been recommended by the IBPGR Advisory Committee on Seed Storage. For base collections, seeds of between 3-7 % moisture content should be stored in sealed containers. Sub-zero temperatures are acceptable, but -18 °C or less is preferred. For active collections sealed storage of seeds dried to 7% moisture content or less is recommended at temperatures of less than 15 °C. Unsealed storage is not encouraged. In particular, it is not recommended in tropical areas.
Table of thousand seed weights of species in your genebank
Fill in this table to use for future reference:
Species 1000 seed weight number of seeds/g






STEP 1. CHECK THE NUMBER OF SEEDS IN THE ACCESSION
1. Weigh the seeds of each accession.
2. Convert the weight of seeds to seed number, using the thousand seed weight of each accession for an accurate conversion. An approximate conversion can be done on a species basis by using the approximate weights given in Appendix 2 of Cromarty, Ellis and Roberts (1982).
3. For accessions containing mixtures of genotypes, the sample size should be at least 4000 seeds. For genetically uniform accessions, the sample size should be at least 3000 seeds.
4. If the sample contains more than the required number of seeds, proceed to storage.
5. If the sample contains less than the required number of seeds, either proceed directly to regeneration (See Section X) or store the seeds temporarily in the genebank and regenerate at the earliest opportunity.
Notes and Examples
An approximate inter-conversion of seed number and weight can be done easily using the thousand seed weight.
Example for Sorghum (1000 seed weight = 17 g)
100 g contains: .
These are minimum sample sizes for the start of storage and if both space and seeds are available, more seeds should be held.
Regenerate as soon as possible. Seeds processed and stored under good conditions will not loose viability before regeneration.
Equipment
Coarse balance
STEP 2. DETERMINE WHERE THE SEEDS SHOULD BE LOCATED
1. Check the inventory data file of the genebank to find the next available space where a container can be located.
2. When seeds from the same regeneration cycle of the same accession are stored in several containers, keep all the containers of the accession together.
3. Make a list of where each accession will be placed.
Notes and Examples
The storage arrangements will vary among genebanks. The most important point is to know exactly where to locate each accession within the store.
Equipment
Racks
Trays, boxes or drawers
Coldroom or freezer
STEP 3. PLACE IN THE SEED STORE
1. Place the container into the seed store in the listed location.
STEP 4. ENTER THE DATA INTO THE DATA BASE
1. Fill in the data on the location and date of storage of each accession and each container into the data file.
2. Record the date of the next monitoring test for germination in the data file. This date will be determined by the curator after considering the viability and moisture content of the seeds, storage conditions and the IBPGR recommendations.
Notes and Examples
A code can be used to locate an accession within the store. Each unit can be identified by a number or letter in the store. The code can indicate the number or the letter of the freezer, store, rack, basket or drawer, etc.
Example:
A010201 could be used to indicate the location as:
Coldroom: A
Rack: 01
Shelf: 02
Box: 01
Colour codes can also be a quick and easy way to locate accessions. A colour can be used for each rack, shelf or species. This both speeds up the work in the coldroom and makes it easy to spot errors. Owing to the very cold temperatures, the faster that one can locate accessions in the cold room the better.
Arrangement of your seed store
Draw a diagram of and explain the coding system used in your seed store:
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http://growingtaste.com/storage.shtml
Virtually all home-garden-supply seed houses supply seed in far too great a quantity for the average home gardener (even those that famously sell small packets at lower prices). The home gardener will thus often want to save seeds bought one year for use in a later year. The question that must arise, then, is how long can we keep seeds and still expect them to germinate and grow when planted?
There are no exact answers: seeds are living things. Moreover, much depends on how the seed is stored. And there is no drop-dead cutoff point either, just reduced percentages of germination, and what is "too low" a germination rate may vary from gardener to gardener (and even fresh, newly bought seeds will not invariably germinate 100%).
Before going on to numbers, let us give you a few links that explain storage principles:
• Giving Seeds What They Need In Storage - good, commonsense information for the home gardener
• Seed Storage Tips - the basics for home gardeners
In short, best storage conditions are those that are the exact opposite of what makes a seed want to sprout. Seeds "know" to sprout when temperatures go up, and fluctuate greatly, when exposed to light, and when warm; so we want to keep storage seed in the dark, very dry, at a low, even temperature.
Those conditions are pretty easily achieved--surplus "ammo cases" are widely sold at low price, they make a watertight (and probably airtight) seal, and are of a size convenient for storing a lot of seed packets. Stash your seed packets in the case, drop in a packet or two of a dissicant (moisture-absorbing agent, like silica gel)--a thing also widely sold inexpensively--and put the box where it will stay at a cool (circa 50° F.) and steady temperature (you can, at an extreme, always bury it a foot or two down in the ground).
(Those are approximate, not exact, instructions--read the web pages linked above for more detail.)
But that doesn't answer the question. What does is the Tables below. The first is by rough longevity, the second sheerly alphabetical by vegetable. The data are our combining of information from several sources: those sources do not always agree perfectly, but we have taken the most conservative (fewest years) figues for these tables. But, again: these are rough estimates for well-stored seed.

Relative Longevity of Well-Stored Vegetable Seed
(by years)
kind of seed relative longevity (years)
Collards 5
Corn salad (mache) 5
Cress 5
Cucumber 5
Endive 5
Lettuce 5
Muskmelon ("Cantelope") 5
Beets 4
Brussels Sprouts 4
Cabbage 4
Cauliflower 4
Chard, Swiss 4
Chicory 4
Eggplant 4
Kale 4
Pumpkin 4
Radish 4
Rutabaga 4
Sorrel 4
Squash 4
Tomato 4
Turnip 4
Watermelon 4
Asparagus 3
Beans 3
Broccoli 3
Cabbage, Chinese 3
Carrot 3
Celeriac 3
Celery 3
Kohlrabi 3
New Zealand Spinach 3
Pea 3
Corn, sweet 2
Leek 2
Okra 2
Pepper 2
Onion 1
Parsley 1
Parsnip 1
Salsify 1
Scorzonera 1
Spinach 1


Relative Longevity of Well-Stored Vegetable Seed
(alphabetical by vegetable)
kind of seed relative longevity (years)
Asparagus 3
Beans 3
Beets 4
Broccoli 3
Brussels sprouts 4
Cabbage 4
Cabbage, Chinese 3
Carrot 3
Cauliflower 4
Celeriac 3
Celery 3
Chard, Swiss 4
Chicory 4
Corn, sweet 1
Collards 5
Corn Salad (mache) 5
Cress 5
Cucumber 5
Eggplant 4
Endive 5
Kale 4
Kohlrabi 3
Leek 2
Lettuce 5
Muskmelon ("Cantelope") 5
New Zealand Spinach 3
Okra 2
Onion 1
Parsley 1
Parsnip 1
Pea 3
Pepper 2
Pumpkin 4
Radish 4
Rutabaga 4
Salsify 1
Scorzonera 1
Sorrel 4
Spinach 1
Squash 4
Tomato 4
Turnip 4
Watermelon 4

http://www.hillgardens.com/storeseeds.htm
Giving Seeds What They Need In Storage
by Fred Davis, MG, Hill Gardens of Maine (To view other articles, click: Archives)

Welcome through Fred's Garden Gate! On a recent visit to the home of dear friends—a family blend of professionals, gardeners, homemaker, outdoorsman, and delightful youngsters—we brought along a package of choice vegetable seeds that I knew would be accepted with appreciation, and probably shared with several of their friends as well. My heart sank as our host retrieved a Tupperware container from a cabinet above the stove. In it were small, labeled paper envelopes containing an assortment of their cherished seeds carefully saved from the previous season.
Temperatures in this cupboard that Thanksgiving Day had to have been over 90-degrees—in all likelihood, they must frequently have soared to well in excess of 120 as large dinners cooked and scrumptious desserts baked. Humidity levels must almost certainly have wildly fluctuated between a parched zero and a sloshy 100% as torrents of steam bathed those cabinets as well. Hot and cracklin' dry one day, hot and tropic-wet the next!
As you might already have guessed, those are not the ideal seed storage conditions. So, how and where should they be kept to maintain vigor and viability?
First, consider that only drying-tolerant seeds (those that can handle drying out) will enter into the following discussion: virtually all common flowers, herbs, vegetables, shrubs, and a great many trees. Drying-intolerant types—aquatics, some large-seeded plants, and the nut-like seeds of a number of trees like oak, chestnut, ginkgo and buckeye, for example—are normally planted fresh, and are usually not storable. In their natural setting, drying-intolerant seeds fall to the ground and then immediately germinate.
Nature—whose methods are age-old, tested and proven effective—almost always gradually matures and dries seeds on the plant. Nature has learned that, as seeds undergo this drying and transition from active growth to full dormancy, important physiological changes occur as food reserves convert from vulnerable sugars to more stable (storable) fats and starches. In this more stable condition, a broad range of seed types can be stored for sometimes years. . .assuming optimum storage conditions are maintained. What are those ideal conditions?
As a general rule, humidity levels within the storage environment should be maintained in the range of 25-35%. The average home during northern-tier winters is exceptionally dry—often dipping into the low teens. Low humidity draws moisture from delicate seed structures and exerts a negative impact on vigor and germination rate. Drying seeds to zero moisture will, of course, destroy them. The rule: once seeds have dried (cured) to the correct moisture level (by weight), unless you have the kind of precisely-controlled storage conditions employed by seed companies like Johnny's Selected Seeds in Albion, Maine, store yours in sealed, air-tight containers like glass jars or doubled Ziploc bags. In the highly variable home or small farm environment, paper envelopes, cloth bags, or cardboard boxes allow for exchange of far too much (or too little) moisture for long-term storage.
Temperature, of course, must be maintained within a relatively narrow range. I've heard it said that the home freezer is the best place. Personally, I question the advisability of freezing temperatures in one- to two-season storage. While it is true that many seeds will store almost indefinitely if deep-frozen, those who have done the research recommend short-term home storage between just above freezing, to about 40- or 45-degrees. Properly sealed after drying, I've found an ideal location to be on the cellar floor in a corner furthest away from heat sources such as furnaces, water heaters, or warm-air ducting. Our new "root cellar"—an enclosed, insulated crawl space beneath our recently reconstructed solarium— to be perfect for our seed storage needs at a comfortable 25% humidity and 42-degrees (F) nearly constant temperature.
Darkness is the third, yet equally important, requirement. Bear in mind that certain conditions (moisture, temperature and light—especially in some combination thereof) stimulate and support the process of germination—sprouting. Just as many foods, pharmaceuticals and chemicals rapidly deteriorate when exposed to light, so also is seed viability and vigor impacted by being exposed to illumination during storage. That cool corner of the cellar or root/vegetable storage area should also be very dark. The worse possible scenario: a sudden change to warmth, elevated humidity and light during mid-winter storage, followed by chilling, drying and return to darkness. Kiss them goodbye!
Seed storage problems:
Mildew or Mold. Seeds not dried to the correct moisture level before being sealed in glass or plastic, can—and do frequently—rot. A simple test: After "drying" and placing in closed glass jars or plastic bags, the appearance of condensation on the inside of those containers within a few hours indicates the need for further drying. Stay right on this one because damp seeds will decay (and die) very quickly!
Insects. Weevils, borers and small beetles that may have escaped notice will wreak havoc on stored seeds. A few pinches of diatomaceous earth (DE) is a safe, inexpensive, prudent, and non-toxic bit of insurance against insect damage. DE is available at some farm 'n garden stores and larger garden centers. It doesn't take much; just be sure to lightly coat all seeds before final sealing and storage. Avoid the use of powerful commercial insecticides.
Rodents. Seeds in storage, unless precautions are inaugurated, can provide a virtual banquet for mice or other small vermin. Prevent damage by placing labeled seed containers in either metal or plastic storage containers, or enclose them in an unused picnic or camp cooler. Please don't use tanglefoot traps to capture, terrorize, and torture mice.
Following the above easy "rules" will ensure longevity and viability of the seeds of a new generation of flowers, herbs, fruits and vegetables. Have a warm, safe and pleasant winter and holiday!
Extensive list of flower and vegetable seeds, and how long they'll last in as close to ideal storage conditions possible in most homes.
http://www.hillgardens.com/seed_longevity.htm

Longevity of seeds in ideal storage
(Information contained in the below list, while presumed reasonably accurate, is a compilation of my own experience and published industry-wide "guestimates", and is offered here in the public interest at no charge and with no warranty stated or implied.)
Note: Time in terms of years can vary widely depending on individual storage conditions. Virtually everyone will have a different experience. Some seeds can last for decades...perhaps even centuries...IF storage conditions are absolutely perfect. Few gardeners have the ability—or the desire—to sustain those perfect conditions for long. Please read the article: Giving Seeds What They Need In Storage

VEGETABLES
Seed Type Years Seed Type Years
Asparagus 3-4 Mustard 5-8
Beans 3-6 New Zealand Spinach 4-5
Beets 3-4 Okra 1-2
Broccoli 4-5 Onions 2-4
Brussels Sprouts 4-5 Parsley 3-5
Cabbage 4-5 Parsnips 1-3
Cantaloupe 6-10 Peas 4-6
Carrots 3-5 Peppers (all) 3-5
Cauliflower 4-5 Potatoes (real seed) 5-7
Celeriac 4-5 Pumpkins 3-5
Celery 3-5 Radish 3-5
Chicory 4-5 Rutabaga 3-5
Collards 4-5 Salsify 3-4
Corn 4-6 Scorzonera 3-4
Cucumbers 5-7 Spinach 3-4
Eggplants 3-5 Squash (all) 3-5
Escarole/Endive 3-4 Strawberry 3-6
Kale 4-5 Sunflower 4-6
Kohlrabi 4-5 Swiss Chard 3-4
Leeks 2-4 Tomato 4-7
Lettuce 3-4 Turnip 5-8
Watermelon 4-6


FLOWERS
Seed Type Years Seed Type Years
Achillea 4 Hollyhock 2-3
Acroclinium 3 Humulus 1-2
Ageratum 4 Hunnemannia 1-2
Agrostemma 4 Impatiens 2
Alyssum 4 Ipomea 2-3
Amaranthus 4-5 Kochia 1
Ammobium 1-2 Larkspur 1-2
Anagallis 4-5 Lathyrus 3-4
Anemone 2 Lavatera 4-5
Anthemis 2 Lilium (true lilies) 1 (Note)

Anthirrhium 3-4 Linaria 2-3
Aquilegia 2 Linum 1-2
Arabis 2-3 Lobelia 3-4
Arnerua 3 Lunaria 1-2
Aster 1-2 Lupine 1-2
Aubrietia 2 Lychnis 2-3
Balloon Vine 3-4 Marigold 2-3
Balsam Flower 5-6 Marvel of Peru 2-3
Bartonia 1-2 Matricaria 2-3
Bellis 2-3 Mesembryanthemum 3-4
Bidens 2 Mignonette 2-4
Boltonia 5 Myosotis 1-2
Brachicome 3-4 Nasturtium 5-7
Browallia (Bush Violet) 2-3 Nemesia 2-3
Cacalia 1-2 Nemophila 2
Calendula 5-6 Nepeta 2-3
Calliopsis 3-4 Nicotiana 3-4
Campanula 3 Nigella 1-2
Candytuft 2-3 Oenothera 2
Canna 3 Pansy 1-2
Carnation 4-5 Passiflora 1
Celosia 4 Penstemon 2
Centaurea 1-3 Petunia 2-3
Chelone 1-3 Phacelia 2
Chrysanthemum 4-5 Phlox 1-2
Cineraria 3-4 Physalis 1-2
Clarkia 2-3 Physostegia 2-3
Clianthus 1 Platycodon 2-3
Cober 2 Polemonium 1-2
Coix 2-3 Poppy (all) 4-5
Coleus 2 Portulaca 2-3
Collinsia 1-2 Pueraria (kudzu) 3-4
Convolvulus 4-5 Pyrethrum 1-2
Coreopsis 2 Ranunculus 5-6
Cosmos 3-4 Rhodanthe 2-3
Cyclamen 4-5 Salpiglossis 5-7
Cynoglossum 2-3 Salvia 1
Dalhia 2-3 Sanvitalia 4-5
Datura 3-4 Saponaria 1-2
Delphinium 1 Scabiosa 2-3
Dianthus 4-5 Schizanthus 4-5
Dicentra 1-2 Shasta Daisy 1-2
Didiscus 2-3 Smilax 1
Digitalis 2 Statice (annual) 2-3
Dimorphotheca 1 Stocks 5-6
Dolichos 2 Stokesia 1-2
Erigeron 2 Sweet Peas 2-3
Eschscholzia 3 Sweet William 1-2
Euphorbia 2-3 Thalictrum 1
Gaillardia 2-3 Thunbergia 1-2
Gamolepis 2 Tithonia 2
Geranium 1-2 Torenia 1-2
Gerbera 1 Tritoma 2
Geum 2 Venidium 1-2
Gilia 4-5 Verbena 1
Godetia 3 Vinca 1-2
Gomphrena 2-3 Viola 1
Gourds 3-4 Virginia Stock 1-2
Gypsophila 2-3 Wallflower 4-5
Helianthus 2-3 Wild Cucumber 1-2
Helichrysum 1-2 Wisteria 2
Heliotrope 1-2 Xeranthemum 2
Hesperis 3-4 Zinnia 5-6
Hibiscus 3-4
Most of the popular Herbs...Don't expect much better than one year of storage longevity. Even then, the most you can hope for would be something less than 50% germination...at best.

http://www.zetatalk.com/teams/seeds/seedstor.htm

Words of advice from Geri Guidetti of The Arc Institute
To sum up storage of seed, cool, dark and dry are the conditions you want. Temperature fluctuations, especially heat, and humidity are seeds' worst enemies. Generally the drier and cooler the better. You are shooting for a moisture content of about 8%. Seed that dry can be safely frozen for very long periods of time with little of no loss of seed viability. I have spoken with seed storage experts at the National Seed Storage Laboratory and was told that seed stored forty years ago under these conditions was highly viable.
A great way to get seed down to such low levels of moisture is to use a desiccant with your seed packets and seal them together in an airtight jar. A Kraft mayo jar, for example, is perfect for a new wide-mouth canning lid and ring. Hellman's and Best Foods mayo jars or standard canning jars will take a regular size canning lid. Add silica gel to the jar, add the seeds, still in their packets, to the jars, and seal. Small seeds will dry down to 8-10% moisture overnight, while large seeds may take several days. You can then recycle the silica gel and process more seeds with it, sealing the dry seeds into a new, dry jar and putting them in the freezer.
Now, if you want to store your seed for a year or two, shoot for the coolest, driest part of your home. Humidity is generally a greater enemy of viability than temperature, but both are important. Most vegetable seeds have a natural longevity of about 3-5 years under these conditions. Onions are less - one year or so. Lettuce, approximately 2 years. Store these in the freezer as above, or grow them out this year and multiply to get fresh seed. If you haven't already bought Suzanne Ashworth's great book, Seed to Seed, I would strongly suggest that you do so. It can be purchased through The Arc Institute for only $23.


http://www.arkinstitute.com/gardening.html
The following is a selection of frequently asked email and Newsgroup questions for The Ark Institute's Director, Geri Guidetti. Under Construction: In the weeks ahead, this section will be formatted, expanded and indexed to allow for easy, convenient access to frequently asked questions.

Q: Geri, how do I store my garden seeds properly? A magazine article I read has me confused.
The first thing you learn when reading the existing data on seed storage is that there is no one, perfect answer to the seed storage dilemma for every kind of seed. Seed response to different storage conditions is as variable as the seeds' DNAs.
The other, huge problem is that studies that are often quoted to me by other purveyors of seed who call/write me for advice on seed they sell is age. Data cited for seed storage info in USDA's Agricultural Handbook # 506, "Principles and Practices of Seed Storage" published, itself, in 1978, comes from studies done in 1900, 1927, 1929, 1939, 1953, etc. You get the idea: these are OLD studies and the technology available to investigators to study alternative gas environments of seeds and to seal them properly for the study were bad to poor.
What's more, many of the studies were poorly designed. This was due to lack of rigorous/modern scientific training of the investigators who did the studies. USDA's own review, in 1978, of the existing data led them to say "...For many years research has been conducted on the effects of a partial vacuum and such gases as CO2, O2, N2 on the longevity of various kinds of seeds. The reported results from these studies are variable and in some instances appear contradictory. This confusion results from the widely divergent test methods employed by the researchers direct comparisons cannot be made between and among the various data...sealed storage cannot be directly compared with open storage because in sealed containers oxygen concentration in the atmosphere decreases, and the CO2 concentration increases with time, whereas in open storage the composition of the atmosphere remains constant. Because it is not feasible to continually adjust the compositions of the atmosphere in sealed containers, most studies have not included gas analyses. Some workers PAID NO ATTENTION TO EITHER SEED MOISTURE OR STORAGE TEMPERATURE, whereas others attempted to control one or the other...Several used air-dry seeds and room temp, both of which provide a minimum of information abut the conditions actually used. TO ACCURATELY ASSESS THE PROTECTIVE VALUE OF EITHER A PARTIAL VACUUM OR A GAS, ALL ENVIRONMENTAL CONDITIONS HAVE TO BE CONSIDERED."
The simple truth is that there is no one study that controls for all of the environmental factors that affect seed viability and longevity. Unless the magazine you site has performed or funded a new, scientifically controlled, modern study of nitrogen's effects on "x" and "y" seeds while controlling for every other factor, or unless they cite data from such a top-notch study, I would ignore such a blanket statement.
Here is info from a later, scientifically controlled, and more comprehensive study done at the National Seed Storage Laboratory in the late '70s. One lot each of Great Lakes lettuce, crimson clover, safflower, sesame and hybrid sorghum seed were sealed in air, partial vacuum, CO2, N2, He, and Argon and stored at -12C, -1C, 10C, 21C and 32C. O degrees Celsius is the same as 32 degrees F, so the -1 and -12 C are the freezing temps studied.
Here are brief results from the data:
"...regardless of the kind of seed, no storage atmosphere consistently gave the highest germination percentage at all temperatures for seeds of all moisture levels tested. The data also show that there are distinct differences between kinds of seed in their response to temperature and seed moisture content."
At 21 deg C (approx 68 deg F), "...significant reductions in germination occurred for 4% moisture seeds under vacuum, and in air, nitrogen....(inadvertently clipped by original poster)
________________________________________
Q: Are The Ark Institute's seeds vacuum-packed?

The posted reply reads as follows:
Dated : August 13, 1998 at 16:38:00
Dave, the Ark Institute's seed is not vacuum packed and should not be. The seeds are alive. A true vacuum could kill them. Overall, partial vacuums offer no advantage either. Some data from many studies: Storage in nitrogen, CO2, helium or even argon offers no advantage over air for lettuce seeds. There is no advantage under nitrogen or partial vacuum for onion seed. Cabbage seeds store equally well in air, nitrogen or partial vacuum. Dandelion seeds, ditto. Sorghum does a bit better sealed in partial vacuum than in air, CO2, nitrogen, argon or helium. Storage of HIGH MOISTURE wheat seed in CO@ or nitrogen can extend seed viability for a few DAYS. Lowering the temp extends such storage several additional weeks, but then deterioration of viability begins. For red and white clover seeds, vacuum shortens their lives. NO atmosphere tested--not air, O2, N2, CO2, helium or vacuum--was consistently or significantly better than any other for crimson clover. Soybeans did better in an oxygen- free environment and in a vacuum--an apparent exception to the other vacuum data.
• Grass seed (quote): "In fact, when the seeds were subjected to an unfavorable temperture, loss of viability was more rapid for seeds packaged with nitrogen or under vacuum than with air.
• Corn seed (quote): "Corn seeds containing 12 to 14 percent moisture were practically all dead after one-half to 1 year, regardless of the surrounding gas."

I answer so many phone calls a day on seed storage variables as a result of all kinds of erroneous information people are getting from word-of-mouth, rumor, less-than-correct sources [I'm being nice ], that it literally eats up hours a day, but it IS important, so here is the best in-a-nutshell-summary I can offer you, AND the most reliable given available data across the many different seed varieties you are wanting to store:
• MOISTURE content is critical. In general, the lower the better. You are shooting for approximately 8-10 percent. This is in the enclosure I wrote for your seed package. It is in Suzanne Ashworth's Seed to Seed book that we suggest everyone gets. It is based on scientific data. In fact, Harrington's Thumb Rules for drying seed says that for each 1 percent reduction in seed moisture content, the time that the seed can be stored without seriously affecting germination is DOUBLED. This rule applies when seed moisture content is between 5 and 14 percent. In sealed storage, the expected life of vegetable seeds with an 8 percent moisture content could be doubled by removing 1 percent more moisture before sealing. SO, for all of you that have called me to ask if it is possible to over-dry your seed using the silica gel I recommend in the enclosure, I have answered, "no".

I have also told you that temperature plays a big role. In general, the colder the better--freezing is the best!The latter IF and only IF the moisture content of the seed is in this low range. Water is unique it its expansion rather than contraction upon freezing. Expansion of frozen water in seeds kills them. You want dry seed and silica gel will do that for you. A rule of thumb is an amount of silica gel equal to the weight of seed in the jar.

I have tried to simplify many years of seed storage data to give you an easy-to-follow protocol suitable for prolonging viability of all of your vegetable seed varieties. For those of you who want to see some of this data firsthand, see Agricultural Handbook # 506, The U.S. Dept of Agriculture. I do hope this helps to clear up some of the misinformation and disinformation many of you are hearing from different sources/vendors. It might be a good idea to print this out for future reference. I have provided an original agricultural reference so you can check it out for yourself, too, if you like. As always, buyer beware....Geri Guidetti, The Ark Institute
________________________________________
Q: Is it safe to freeze my seed?
Nicki, it is not safe to freeze seed--if you want to grow it later-- unless its moisture has been brought way down--ideally 8-10%. Like all water, the water in plant cells will expand when frozen and rupture microscopic cell inclusions and even the cells themselves. This will kill them. The 8-10% moisture is not sufficient to expand and rupture the cell and it is not a difficult level to reach, and you don't have to measure it. Silica gel, or other good desiccants, placed in sufficient quantity in a mayo or canning jar will do the job. Then the folded seed packets are placed on top of the desiccant. Let stand at room temp to dry out for 4-5 days. You do NOT have to freeze the desiccant with the seed. You can recycle it. Simply remove the very dry seed packets to another dry jar, screw on another, NEW canning lid and put the jar in the freezer. A small seed brought down to 8-10% moisture will snap cleanly between your thumb nails. A large bean seed that dry will shatter when struck with a hammer. A half-inch of silica gel in a jar will do it for lots of small seeds like carrots, cabbages, broccoli, etc. Large seeds require more, especially if you live in a moist climate and the seed has likely taken on some moisture from the air.

Now, about refrigerator storage. Most veggie seeds will last 3-5 years if kept cool, dark and dry. The cooler the better. Onions, at one year, are an exception, and lettuce at 2 years, ditto. At 40 degrees, the refrigerator will be a lot better to help meet the cool category than a 75 degree kitchen or 100 degree attic. Yet, the 40% humidity is not good for open seed. One only needs to take a look at that bowl of left over macaroni and cheese in the back of the refrigerator to see that some fungi do very well in the refrigerator. Forty percent humidity will allow fungi to grow on the surface. If you want to take advantage of refrigerator temps to store your seed, jar it with desiccant just like the freezer-targeted seed.

Oh--about just placing seed in an airtight container--this is great for VERY dry seed, but for any seed that has been absorbing moisture from ambient humidity or for seed insufficiently dried at harvest, an airtight container is a breeding ground for fungus...Geri Guidetti


http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07221.html
Storing Vegetable and Flower Seeds
by J.E. Ells, L.N. Bass and D. Whiting1 (2/08)
Quick Facts...
• Vegetable and flower seeds may be kept for one year without appreciable decrease in germination.
• Storage may be extended to 10 or more years under proper conditions.
• Seed moisture and storage temperature are the most important factors in determining how long seed can be stored.
• The drier the seeds are, the longer they will store.
A Garden's success depends in part on the quality of seeds planted. Ensure good quality seed by planting fresh seed from a reputable seed company. Often, there is seed left over after a crop is planted. If there is enough for the next year, save it.
Storing Seed
In Colorado, all vegetable and flower seeds will store on a shelf at room temperature for at least one year without significant loss of germination. If there is enough seed for several years, then take further steps to ensure viability.
A 10-year storage life can be achieved by drying seed to less than 8 percent moisture. To do so, dry seed at 100 degrees F for six hours. Obtain this temperature by spreading the seed out in direct sunlight. However, because sunlight is harsh and easily can exceed this temperature, drying in the shade is better.
Never use a microwave oven. You may use a conventional oven if you keep the door open and the seed is not heated to more than 100 degrees. Package the seed in moisture-proof containers and store it in a refrigerator or deep freezer. A moisture-proof container is one that stores seed safely while submerged in water. Use sealed cans or jars, rather than plastic bags.
Factors Affecting Seed Storage
Conditions essential to good seed storage are just the opposite of those required for good germination. Good germination occurs when water and oxygen are present at a favorable temperature. Good seed storage results when seeds are kept dry (below 8 percent moisture) and the temperature is kept low (below 40 degrees).
When seed moisture and storage temperature are low, the presence of oxygen has not been shown to be a factor in seed longevity. Germination is unaffected by storage in atmospheres of nitrogen, carbon dioxide, partial vacuum or air.
Relative humidity (RH) influences the moisture content of seed if it is not stored in moisture-proof containers. For example, at 15 percent RH, seed will dry down to 6 percent moisture and will store safely in this condition for several years. However, at 90 percent RH, seed will dry down to only 19 percent moisture and germination will be poor after one year.
Hard Seed
The drier the seeds, the longer they will store. There is a chance of producing what is known as "hard seed" if moisture is reduced below 8 percent. Hard seed resists germination under favorable conditions because it does not absorb enough water. When planted, the seed gradually absorbs water, germinates and produces seedlings over an extended period. A seed lot containing 50 percent hard seed is little better than a lot containing 50 percent dead seed, because neither produces a stand of seedlings when they should.
Beans and peas are particularly subject to this condition and therefore should not be dried as completely as other seed. If they have been overdried, they germinate better if exposed to a humid atmosphere for two weeks before planting.
To be in compliance with the Colorado Seed Law, packets of vegetable seed sold in Colorado must germinate at or above the germination percentage shown in Table 1. As yet, there are no standards for flower seeds under Colorado laws and, therefore, the only assurance of quality is the reputation of the seed company.
Table 1: Federal and Colorado minimum germination, seed count and relative longevity of selected vegetable seed.
Kind of seed Minimum germination
(percentage) Average number
of seed per: Relative longevity
(years)
gram ounce
Asparagus 60 50 1,400 3
Beans 70 4 100 3
Beets 65 70 2,000 4
Broccoli 75 290 8,100 3
Brussels sprouts 70 300 8,500 4
Cabbage 75 280 7,700 4
Cabbage, Chinese 75 250 7,000 3
Carrot 55 790 22,000 3
Cauliflower 75 310 8,600 4
Celeriac 55 1,800 50,000 3
Celery 55 2,700 76,000 3
Chard, Swiss 65 50 1,500 4
Chicory 65 710 20,000 4
Corn, sweet 75 5 140 2
Cucumber 80 40 1,100 5
Eggplant 60 260 7,200 4
Endive 70 610 17,000 5
Kale 75 360 10,000 4
Kohlrabi 75 330 9,200 3
Leek 60 350 9,900 2
Lettuce 80 930 26,000 1
Muskmelon 75 40 1,100 5
Okra 50 18 500 2
Onion 70 300 8,500 1
Parsley 60 640 18,000 1
Parsnip 60 240 6,800 1
Pea 80 7 200 3
Pepper 55 160 4,500 2
Pumpkin 75 7 200 4
Radish 75 110 3,100 4
Rutabaga 75 390 11,000 4
Salsify 75 70 2,000 1
Spinach 60 100 2,900 3
Spinach, New Zealand 40 20 430 3
Squash 75 10 300 4
Tomato 75 360 10,000 4
Turnip 80 500 14,000 4
Watermelon 70 10 300 4
1J.E. Ells, Colorado State University Extension vegetable crop specialist and associate professor (retired), horticulture and landscape architecture; and L.N. Bass, director, National Seed Storage Laboratory, Agricultural Research Service, U.S. Department of Agriculture. Reviewed by D. Whiting, Colorado State University Extension specialist, consumer horticulture and Colorado Master Gardener coordinator and resident instructor.11/92. Reviewed 2/08.
Colorado State University, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and Colorado counties cooperating. CSU Extension programs are available to all without discrimination. No endorsement of products mentioned is intended nor is criticism implied of products not mentioned.
_________________
Politics: poly=many & tics blood sucking insects.

There are two kinds of games. Chess and everything else.

[kwbeagle]

Wow! I was interested to see the lists of years of viability for all the different seeds. I always thought corn would store more than a year. What is salad corn? I have some seed that is two years old. Its bveen in a temp controlled store room. I am going to try it next spring and see what happens. Think I'll alternate old and new rows.

I always buy twice as much seed as I need. Also, I only plant heirloom and save seed at the end of the season. I have so much seed, I could start a store. I guess I'll keep doing it until the socialists are cleaned out of congress or TSHTF.
_________________
Chief KW Beagle - Global Warming is a HOAX

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Roll Tide!!!!Roll!!! 13 National Championships

[Conservative]

Corn can be saved for more than a year. The traditional approach of the Tarahumara Indians is to plant two year old corn seed. Two factors make this possible.

1. The climate is very dry and most seed is stored in cool store rooms that rarely reach temperatures much over the mid 70's as a maximum and that only for a short period of time.

2. By consistently saving seed for two years before planting they continuously select for longer seed viability.

The obvious benefit is that should your crop fail one year you still have seed for the next. However that is not the explanation that I was given, they insist that corn and been seed gets stronger with age. Their reasoning is erroneous but the action is correct.
_________________
Politics: poly=many & tics blood sucking insects.

There are two kinds of games. Chess and everything else.